Cortina d'Ampezzo: The Complete Holiday Guide for Hikers & Travellers
Cortina d'Ampezzo: The Complete Holiday Guide for Hikers & Travellers
by Luca Mattiello – Volpi del Vajolet | Dolomites hiking blog
🚗 How to Get to Cortina d'Ampezzo
Cortina is located in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy, in the heart of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Venice Marco Polo (VCE) — ~2h 15min drive, most direct option from UK and international flights
- Innsbruck Airport (INN) — ~2h drive, good for northern Europe routes
- Verona Villafranca (VRN) — ~2h 30min drive
- Bolzano Airport (BZO) — ~1h 30min drive
By car from Venice: Take the A27 motorway towards Belluno, then follow signs for Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. The road through the Cadore valley is scenic and straightforward. No motorway tolls on the final stretch.
By public transport: Bus services run from Venice and Dobbiaco. The journey takes longer but is perfectly manageable — check Flixbus and local SAD/DolomitiBus services. Note: Cortina no longer has a railway station.
Best season: Mid-June to October for hiking. July–August is peak season — busy and expensive. September is the sweet spot: perfect weather, golden larches beginning to turn, far fewer tourists.
Parking: Cortina town centre has limited parking. Use the park-and-ride facilities on the outskirts in peak season. Many trailheads have their own car parks.
🏨 Where to Stay in Cortina
| Option | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cortina centre | Lively, upscale, walkable | Shopping, restaurants, cable car access |
| Pocol / Passo Falzarego area | Quieter, mountain feel | Hikers, direct trailhead access, better value |
| San Vito di Cadore | Peaceful valley village | Families, budget-friendly, 15min from Cortina |
| Misurina | Lake setting, very scenic | Walkers, Tre Cime access, relaxed pace |
Note: Cortina is one of Italy's most expensive resorts. Budget travellers should look at accommodation in Misurina, San Vito di Cadore or the Cadore valley for better value.
👁️ Things to See & Do
🎬 "Un Passo dal Cielo" TV Series Locations
Cortina and the surrounding Dolomites are the setting for the hugely popular Italian TV series Un Passo dal Cielo (One Step from Heaven). The iconic Cason di Rozes — the lakeside wooden house used as the protagonist's cabin — is one of the most photographed spots in the Ampezzano valley. It sits at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes and is easily reachable on a short walk. A pilgrimage for fans of the series and a beautiful spot for anyone else.
🪖 WWI History – Lagazuoi Tunnels
The Lagazuoi massif was one of the most intense battlefronts of the First World War between Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces. Both sides dug tunnels inside the mountain for military operations, some of which survive today and can be explored. The Museo all'Aperto del Lagazuoi (open-air museum) on the summit offers a moving combination of mountain scenery and war history. Reachable by cable car from Passo Falzarego.
🏔 Cortina's Cable Cars & Mountain Stations
Several cable cars give easy access to high-altitude viewpoints without hiking: Tofana–Freccia nel Cielo reaches 3,244m (one of the highest cable car stations in the Dolomites), Faloria offers panoramic views over the town, and Cinque Torri lifts reach the famous rock towers at around 2,100m. Even non-hikers can experience the high mountain environment.
🛍️ Corso Italia – Shopping & Aperitivo
Cortina's main street, Corso Italia, is a pedestrianised boulevard lined with designer shops, historic cafes and restaurants. The famous Bar Lovat and Pasticceria Alvera are Cortina institutions. Even if luxury shopping isn't your thing, the evening passeggiata along the Corso is a quintessential Italian alpine experience.
🌅 Passo Falzarego & Passo Giau
Passo Falzarego (2,105m) and Passo Giau (2,233m) are two of the most spectacular mountain passes in the Dolomites — both easily driveable in summer and offering extraordinary views. Passo Giau in particular, with its open meadows and 360° Dolomites panorama, is one of the most photographed landscapes in Italy.
🥾 The Best Hikes near Cortina d'Ampezzo
All hikes below are described from personal experience. Organised from easiest to most demanding.
🟢 Easy Hikes & Walks
1. Cason di Rozes – "Un Passo dal Cielo" Film Location
A flat and very easy walk to the famous Cason di Rozes, the iconic wooden cabin on the lake used as the main location in the TV series Un Passo dal Cielo. Even without knowing the series, the setting is magical — the small lake perfectly mirrors the Tofana di Rozes rising dramatically behind it. One of the most beautiful easy walks near Cortina, accessible to everyone. Perfect for a gentle morning or as a first outing on arrival day.
2. Cinque Torri (Five Towers) from Bain de Dones
The Cinque Torri (Five Towers) are among the most iconic rock formations in the Dolomites — five dramatic pinnacles rising above a high meadow plateau, with a 360° panorama of Cortina's ring of mountains. This short loop is one of the most rewarding easy hikes in the entire region. You can take the chairlift most of the way and walk the rest, or hike up from Bain de Dones. The area also has a fascinating WWI open-air museum with reconstructed trenches and gun emplacements. Suitable for families with children.
🟡 Medium Hikes
3. Lagazuoi Tunnels – WWI History Trail
One of the most unique hikes in the Alps. Take the cable car up to the Lagazuoi summit (2,778m), then descend through the network of WWI military tunnels dug inside the mountain by Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces between 1915 and 1917. The descent takes about 1.5–2 hours through the dimly-lit tunnels (bring a torch/headlamp) and combines spectacular mountain scenery with a genuinely moving piece of history. The views from the top before entering the tunnels are extraordinary. A truly unforgettable experience unlike anything else in the Dolomites.
4. Rifugio Giussani – Foot of the Tofane
A classic and very rewarding hike to Rifugio Giussani (2,580m), set in the dramatic cirque below the three Tofane peaks. The refuge sits at the foot of sheer vertical walls and offers one of the most intimate views of Cortina's most iconic mountains. The ascent is sustained but never technical. A highlight of any visit to Cortina for confident walkers. The return descent offers constantly changing views over the Ampezzo valley.
5. Rifugio Croda da Lago, Lago Federa & Mondeval – Passo Giau
Starting from the spectacular Passo Giau, this hike reaches the beautiful Lago Federa — a high-altitude lake set in an open basin with extraordinary views of the Dolomites — and continues to the Rifugio Croda da Lago. An optional extension reaches the historic site of Mondeval, where one of the most important Mesolithic human remains in the Alps was discovered. The scenery throughout is world-class. One of the best medium hikes in the Cortina area.
6. Averau, Nuvolau, Cinque Torri & Lago di Limides – Grand Loop
One of the finest medium loop hikes in the Cortina area, connecting several highlights in one long day: the summit of Averau (2,649m), the historic Rifugio Nuvolau (the oldest mountain refuge in the Dolomites, built in 1891), the Cinque Torri and the beautiful Lago di Limides. The views from Nuvolau are among the most complete panoramas in the western Dolomites. A full mountain day with constantly varied scenery.
🔴 Challenging Hikes
7. Lago di Sorapiss – The Famous Turquoise Lake
The Lago di Sorapiss is one of the most famous and photographed lakes in the Dolomites — its extraordinary turquoise-milky colour, caused by glacial mineral deposits, is unlike any other Alpine lake. The hike from Passo Tre Croci is one of the most spectacular in the entire Cortina area, but it's also demanding and requires care: the trail includes some exposed sections along narrow ledges and a few passages requiring hands. Not suitable for those with a fear of heights. The lake at the end more than justifies the effort.
8. Lagazuoi Loop – Kaiserjäger Trail
A demanding full-day loop around the Lagazuoi massif following the historic Sentiero Kaiserjäger — the path used by Austro-Hungarian mountain troops during WWI. The route climbs steeply through rocky terrain, passing trenches, gun positions and wartime infrastructure, before reaching the Lagazuoi summit. The panoramic views from the top take in the Tofane, Cinque Torri, Marmolada and most of the Dolomites. A unique combination of mountain adventure and WWI history.
9. Ferrata Ra Gusela – Nuvolau & Cima Averau
For those with via ferrata experience, this route from Passo Giau combines the exciting Ferrata Ra Gusela to reach the Rifugio Nuvolau, then continues over the summit of Cima Averau. Requires a via ferrata kit (harness, lanyards, helmet) and previous ferrata experience. The views from both summits are extraordinary — among the best in the Cortina area. A genuine adventure for experienced mountain walkers.
10. Col dei Bos – Ferrata Truppe Alpine & Lagazuoi Tunnels Loop
The most demanding and adventurous route in this guide — a full-day loop combining the Ferrata Truppe Alpine on Col dei Bos, the summit of Lagazuoi and the descent through the famous WWI tunnels. An extraordinary day that covers history, via ferrata climbing and high mountain scenery in one epic outing. Only for experienced mountain walkers with via ferrata equipment. Requires excellent weather and an early start.
📋 Quick Reference – All Hikes at a Glance
| Hike | Difficulty | Time | Elevation |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Cason di Rozes | 🟢 Easy | 1–2h | flat |
| 2. Cinque Torri from Bain de Dones | 🟢 Easy | 2h | ~200m |
| 3. Lagazuoi Tunnels | 🟡 Medium | 2–3h descent | 650m ↓ |
| 4. Rifugio Giussani – Tofane | 🟡 Medium | 4–5h | ~700m |
| 5. Rifugio Croda da Lago & Lago Federa | 🟡 Medium | 4–5h | ~500m |
| 6. Averau, Nuvolau, Cinque Torri Loop | 🟡 Medium | 5–6h | ~700m |
| 7. Lago di Sorapiss ⚠️ | 🔴 Hard | 6h | ~600m |
| 8. Lagazuoi – Kaiserjäger Loop | 🔴 Hard | 6–7h | ~800m |
| 9. Ferrata Ra Gusela & Averau | 🔴 Hard (ferrata) | 5–6h | ~700m |
| 10. Col dei Bos + Tunnels Loop | 🔴 Very Hard | 7–8h | ~900m |
💡 Practical Tips for Cortina
- Cortina Card: In summer, a guest card is issued to hotel guests giving free bus transport throughout the valley — very useful for reaching trailheads without a car.
- Cable cars: Most run mid-June to mid-October. Book tickets online in July–August to avoid queues.
- Via ferrata: Several routes around Cortina require harness and lanyards. Hire equipment in town if needed and never attempt without previous experience.
- Lago Sorapiss warning: This trail has exposed sections. Check conditions before going and only attempt in dry, settled weather.
- Weather: Mountain weather can change fast. Check forecasts at ARPA Veneto and always carry a rain jacket.
- Food: Cortina is expensive — a coffee at a mountain refuge can cost €4–5. Pack your own lunch to save money on longer hikes.
- Currency: Euro (€). Cards accepted everywhere in town; cash useful at smaller refuges.
Written by Luca Mattiello based on personal hiking experience in Cortina d'Ampezzo and the Ampezzano Dolomites. All trails described first-hand. For the Italian version, click here.
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